Day 10 Oct 6 - Travel to Lisbon

After a much needed night's sleep (the hotel in Viseu was located between bars and this being the first official college weekend - we were all kept awake until 6am yesterday morning by extremely drunk, loud Portuguese students!) After a filling breakfast, we headed out with Filipe on our journey back to Lisbon.

Our first stop was the town of Tomar. Here we visited the Convento de Cristo, constructed under the order of the fourth grand master of the Knights Templar in the late 12th century. Tomar was the last Templar town to be commissioned for construction. It was also the center of Portuguese overseas expansion in the 15th century. The Convento de Cristo contains a mixture of gothic and Manueline (Portuguese late gothic style of architectural ornamention) features.
Convento de Cristo
Fresco inside the chapel


Elaborate Manueline ornamentation on the facade 



Small ornately tiled interior chapel

Rather than fight the masses of Catholic Portuguese families and thousands of tourists that normally flock to Fatima on a Sunday, we instead opted to visit the village of Batalha. The most important site in the village is the Gothic style Monastery of Batalha (Mosteiro da Batalha), or more commonly to the Portuguese - the Monastery of the Battle or the Monastery of Saint Mary of the Victory (built to commemorate Portugal's victory over Spain in 1385). The Monastery is also the burial church of some of the 15th-Century Portuguese royals.



The ornate structure was built from limestone that has turned yellow over time. On the western side is a statue of general Nuno Álvares Pereira, who defeated the Spainards and later became a monk (the statue depicts his hair is styled like a monk and he has his back to Spain). 

Several gargoyle-like sculptures based on the Old Testament including Kings, angels, prophets and saints adorn the walls. The sculptures add a whimsy to the gothic feel of the Monastery!




Founder's Chapel where the tombs of King John I and his family are found


Examples of some of the stained glass found throughout the Monastery

Our final stop of the day was to the medieval village of Óbidos. It is a fortified city and has been declared a national monument. It is considered one of Europe's most romantic villages with its incredibly picturesque cobblestone streets lined with narrow houses and colorful souvenir shops, all safely protected within the 45ft high walls of a 12th century castle. While enjoying wandering the streets, we were able to sample a local liqueur called ginginha (cherry liqueur).







Day 9 Oct 5 - Idanha-a-Velha / Monsanto

We left Viseu this morning to travel to the Idanha-a-Velha area. This region of Portugal is a historical area which is off the beaten path of most tourists. The region is also know for its olive oil and cheese.

Our first stop was at a local cheese factory to try some chocolate covered cheese...but alas they had run out of chocolate and they were not expecting any new shipments for a few days!

A few kilometres outside of Idanha-a-Nova (and our second stop) lies a dam which has changed the landscape of the valley. The newly created reservoir contains a large artificial lake which the locals use for canoeing, fishing and other water sports. Since it is the end of the dry season, as you can tell from the photos, the water level was quite low. The concrete trough in the front of the picture would be covered by water at the end of the wet season.


Monsanto in the background

Really, really bad fisherman depicted in the photo below...based on the speed of his casting and reeling in, he apparently believes that fish swim 30km/hr! Needless to say - he didn't catch any of the large fish which we could clearly see from the dam.

The historic village of Idanha-a-Nova is a roman village with traces from Visigoths, Arabs and Knights Templar. It is considered one of the oldest towns in Portugal. This was our stop for a great lunch.

View from the village of Idanha-a-Nova to the valley below

View of the village of Idanha-a-Nova


The village of Proença-a-Velha is the center of an historical olive oil producing region. Local olive farmers have created a cooperative to assist in the production and sales of their products. We visited the cooperative's main facilty in Proença-a-Velha which included a museum as well as their current and active olive presses.

Images from the Olive oil cooperative

Stone oil press


Blacksmith equipment

Monsanto, another historical village, was considered in 1938 to be the "Most Portuguese village of Portugal". The reason this small village garnered the title was for one simple reason...the emblem of Portugal, the Silver Rooster (Galo de Prata) was located on the top of the clock tower.


The village is located near to the top of a mountain (or what the Portuguese call a mountain - 758m above sea level - in Alberta we call this a hill) and at the top you find the remains of a medieval castle. The most notable characteristic of Monsanto is the fact that the village was literally developed around large granite boulders. All the structures are built from granite which also makes them fire-resistant which is good as there is evidence of several recent forest fires in the region.

Entrance into Monsanto village




Views from atop the mountain




Local village life...quiet


Local cuisine & handicrafts



Our last stop before reaching our hotel for the night was Penha Garcia. It is a small village very close to the Spanish border and was a strategic location for the Templars. Today the village is best known for it's Geopark containing a fossil wall which contains the 490 million year old fossilized remains of trilobites.


The Geopark also had a nice little 'village' to show how the original olive oil was milled using the river to power the mills.


As we headed for our hotel, we took a very quick trip across the border into Spain! We didn't stay long as Filipe was getting a rash from being in Spanish territory!



At last our hotel...it's been a long day!


Day 8 Oct 4 - Free Day in Viseu

Today we had a free day in Viseu so we took the opportunity to take a bike ride on the Ecopista do Dao. This bike trip is a 47 km ride from Viseu to Santa Comba Dao winding its way through a number of small towns on the old rail line which has been converted into a bike trail. Most of the original train stations still remain along the trail, although in varying stages of repair.

The first section of the trail between Viseu and the station at Figueiro is quite scenic. However, the large number of 'chicanes' installed to prevent the crazy Portuguese drivers from driving along the trail made it a bit frustrating.

From our stop in Figuiero (the only cafe located directly on the Ecopista - perfect for washroom breaks and espresso) to Farminhao was some of the most scenic part of the ride. With views over fields, vineyards, woods and small villages. As we here in harvest time, the gardens we passed were spilling over with ripe fruit trees (pear, apple), chestnuts falling out of the trees and grapes waiting to be picked.



There was a fairly long climb for a portion of the route but since it's an old railway line – the gradient was fairly steady and gentle. There was even a long tunnel just south of Farminhao – it took a few seconds for our eyes to adjust to the dark! 

Train station at Farminhao

Original Locomotive that resides at the Torredeita station


 Restored building at one of the many stations

River view along the trail

As there are no cafes (after Figueira) located directly along the trail we choose to ride into one of the larger towns halfway through our ride in search of lunch. The first restaurant we discovered was over-flowing with locals and when we entered we immediately became the focus of the entire restaurant. We were so uncomfortable that we left and found another smaller restaurant where the owners made us feel very welcome. Although we can not speak Portuguese and the owners could not speak English, the grandmotherly owner offered to provide us with what she thought we would like...and she did a fantastic job and we were grateful for her kindness.


We continued back on the trail completely full after spending a mere 5.50 Euro on each of our lunches. As the trail is only moderately difficult, we relaxed on the rest of our ride enjoying the view.


One of the many damaged buildings

River at 46km


After 5 hrs of riding and sight-seeing, we ended our trip and dropped off our rented bikes. Filipe picked us up and transported us back to Viseu where we spent the remaining daylight hours exploring the narrow side streets of the historic downtown.

Tile murals are found everywhere!

Square outside our hotel
 


 
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